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    Certain clichés, some more tenacious than others, define generations of Indian restaurants in the United States. It’s a font, the type stylized with curly, pointy-ended serifs. It’s a basket of cold, black-edged papad dressed up as bread service. Usually, though, it’s a menu of naan and curry, pleasing in its soft, warm vagueness. And so when the chef Preeti Mistry opened her first restaurant, she wanted to avoid as many of those clichés as possible. “I wanted to do something that was the opposite of all of that,” Mistry said. At first, she railed against naan and curry. It pained her that India’s vast cuisine was still, so often, reduced to that pairing. “I wanted to bring something that was more out there, that didn’t really exist yet,” she said.

    What Mistry brought was Juhu Beach Club, a small restaurant in Oakland that opened in 2013, where she cooked with ingredients from the farmers’ market. In “The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook,” which Mistry wrote with Sarah Henry last fall, she tells the story of how she grew up tasting Indian street food on the beaches of Mumbai, longing to eat more than her mother’s home-cooked meals and sneaking cans of Coke at friends’ houses. By the time she was working in the basement kitchen of Claridge’s in London, Mistry knew that cooking would be her path.

    She started with a pop-up inside a liquor store in San Francisco, where she moved in the ’90s, crushing cloves and cardamom in a coffee grinder and bringing her spice pastes from home. Eventually, she opened Juhu Beach Club, and though it closed in January, it was authentic to Mistry’s complex point of view as a first-generation Indian-American — one born in London to Asian parents from East Africa, raised in the American Midwest, cheffing in Northern California.

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  • “A lot of old-school Indian restaurants won’t use black salt because they think it’s going to be too weird,” said Mistry, referring to the dark rock salt crystals, pungent with sulfur, often used to season and bring depth to chaats and other food. “I love it, it’s awesome. It has this flavor and funk that’s really distinctive. And I’m not pandering to anyone.” Mistry put black salt in tangy, crunchy salads when she felt it belonged in them and cooked the way she liked. She bought locally grown fenugreek leaves for methi chicken, and built chaat with fresh green chickpeas. She fried the thin, crisp, delicate chickpea noodles to make sev in house, and served them with persimmons when they were in season. “I thought about the building blocks of sev puri,” Mistry said. “I thought about the elements like any chef would think about a classic dish.”

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    There were waffles on the weekends. Mistry cooked them from the same kind of fermented batter typically used to make dosa. And each summer, there was the conundrum of the tomato salad. Every California restaurant has a summery tomato salad of some kind, Mistry explained. A riff of some sort on a caprese — tomatoes, mozzarella, herbs. Mistry wanted one, too, and she experimented with many versions. There was the one with soft, creamy paneer made from fresh milk, standing in for mozzarella. But Mistry said it had too many bells and whistles. Then a few years ago, she came up with a tomato salad that drew from the flavors of a kachumber — a raw, roughly chopped salad sometimes seasoned with only cumin seeds and lemon juice. It’s this one, which I made in my Brooklyn kitchen again and again throughout August and September, that showed me very clearly what I’d miss after Juhu Beach Club closed.

    To put it together, Mistry made something resembling a green-goddess dressing — herbs blitzed with a little yogurt, vinegar and oil. Then she seasoned plain fatty yogurt with toasted, crushed cumin seeds and salt and smeared it all over a plate. She piled a mix of dressed heirloom tomatoes on top, the big ones cut into wedges, the little ones halved. And that was it. “I wanted to make it simple,” Mistry said. “I wanted to make, in the moment, just whatever felt right.”

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    It wasn’t a kachumber, not by any definition. Neither could it pass as a caprese, not that it even wanted to. It wasn’t a mash-up of the two, either. It was better — it was something that didn’t really exist yet — delicious, habit-forming and a wonderful thing to do with the last sweet, fat tomatoes of the year.

    출장오피상주출장시0광양출장안마야한곳]〖구리출장서비스【카톡: mo27】《anma02.c0m》출장샵예약포항출장코스가격Y⇪☠2019-01-19-18-28구리┮AIJ☜출장안마출장샵흥출장안마♧출장가격♥출장샵예약«구리〗익산출장샵추천✄제주도출장샵추천♡광주출장안마야한곳⇈마산출장맛사지서울출장최고시➨의정부출장만남❤〖구리출장연애인급[카톡: mo27]『anma02.c0m』출장가격출장샵예약포항Y✗⚘2019-01-19-18-28구리❀AIJ☎오피출장샵콜걸출장맛사지┯출장오쓰피걸⇡콜걸후기┈구리〗밀양안마☆김포출장만족보장☀전주출장외국인┿전주콜걸추천구리출장오쓰피걸마산출장소이스┻김포콜걸강추♂〖구리출장업계위{카톡: mo27}【anma02.c0m】출장시출장샵예약포항Y┊☏2019-01-19-18-28구리┰AIJ✲출장맛사지외국인출장만남출장미인아가씨♥출장몸매최고✣출장샵예약포항⇩구리〗문경미시출장안마╥천안릉콜걸샵↛평택콜걸강추╋공주출장맛사지밀양출장안마김해출장마사지┤진해미시출장안마▶〖구리출장안마야한곳【카톡: mo27】(anma02.c0m)출장코스가격역출장안마Y☆유2019-01-19-18-28구리↺AIJ↸출장안마추천릉콜걸샵출장안마§출장시﹄출장소이스홍성╖구리〗밀양출장최고시★대구출장소이스홍성┐남양주출장소이스홍성⇞안산콜걸출장안마

  • 출장아가씨
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  • 구리콜걸샵
  • 논산콜걸출장안마┲평택콜걸샵↬〖구리콜걸강추〖카톡: mo27〗【anma02.c0m】미시출장안마콜걸후기Y↔✙2019-01-19-18-28구리→AIJ☀콜걸업소출장미인아가씨콜걸후기↑출장맛사지◐동출장마사지┣구리〗대전출장최고시◆사천흥출장안마▌의왕출장시➸창원출장샵콜걸

  • 구리출장샵후기[카톡: mo27](anma02.c0m)출장업계위출장샵예약포항Y♐◦2019-01-19-18-28구리↟AIJ☵출장안마야한곳출장만족보장모텔출장☜미시출장안마✿출장샵강추◀구리
  • 사천콜걸
  • 양주출장샵강추╃전주미시출장안마↾〖구리출장맛사지『카톡: mo27』〖anma02.c0m〗출장최강미녀출장아가씨Y⇙”2019-01-19-18-28구리┸AIJ┽동출장마사지릉콜걸샵릉콜걸샵✄출장코스가격┨출장오쓰피걸✦구리〗밀양오피걸☻김제출장최강미녀♜영주출장샵후기↷원주출장아가씨구리출장서비스구리미시출장안마(카톡: mo27)《anma02.c0m》출장오쓰피걸출장아가씨Y┠⇉2019-01-19-18-28구리┒AIJ☀콜걸출장안마출장안마출장샵예약»출장코스가격☆콜걸◇구리

    A version of this article appears in print on , on Page 30 of the Sunday Magazine with the headline: The Last Great Tomato Salad of the Year
  • 출장업소
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  • 영주출장마사지☢남양주출장아가씨W〖구리출장샵콜걸(카톡: mo27)〖anma02.c0m〗출장안마콜걸Y⊙➽2019-01-19-18-28구리➽AIJ✐출장안마야한곳콜걸추천흥출장안마╡출장샵예약⇏흥출장안마◎구리〗시흥출장아가씨♗문경출장샵콜걸◦강원도출장샵✪전라남도안마
    과천출장몸매최고ⓞ양산출장소이스-〖구리출장업계위〖카톡: mo27〗{anma02.c0m}출장서비스출장샵안내Y♂╨2019-01-19-18-28구리♭AIJ⇪콜걸출장마사지출장샵출장만남☂출장샵추천☂출장연애인급✘구리〗군포출장미인아가씨↶충청북도동출장마사지♚충주콜걸후기↕강원도출장여대생
  • 구리콜걸출장안마
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  • 정읍출장시♬포항출장서비스보장↹〖구리출장가격『카톡: mo27』〖anma02.c0m〗출장맛사지출장색시미녀언니Y╧☣2019-01-19-18-28구리♟AIJ╓출장안마추천출장맛사지외국인출장만남╣콜걸만남☟출장가격♥구리〗전주오피걸→평택출장샵[구리출장소이스홍성✍여수미시출장안마

  • 구리출장코스가격
  • 24시간대기
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  • 보령콜걸샵➨보령출장아가씨➴〖구리콜걸업소[카톡: mo27][anma02.c0m]출장가격콜걸강추Y⇟♠2019-01-19-18-28구리♩AIJ↺출장샵안내출장업계위출장최고시⇥출장외국인▦콜걸출장안마❀구리〗구미콜걸만남┌태백동출장마사지▥서울콜걸만남✲동해출장오피출장오피걸
  • 구리출장샵콜걸『카톡: mo27』《anma02.c0m》콜걸샵출장서비스Y◈▒2019-01-19-18-28구리﹌AIJ◎콜걸출장안마콜걸출장안마외국인출장만남∷출장소이스홍성┚출장코스가격↷구리
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  • 구리출장가격
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  • 구리출장안마추천(카톡: mo27){anma02.c0m}출장연애인급출장마사지Y☌╇2019-01-19-18-28구리⇜AIJ✄흥출장안마콜걸출장안마출장최고시™출장색시미녀언니◥출장소이스▧구리
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  • 수원출장샵
  • 구리출장안마추천
  • 군포콜걸구리출장안마[카톡: mo27]《anma02.c0m》출장안마콜걸추천Y┡☪2019-01-19-18-28구리►AIJ╏출장안마추천콜걸출장마사지출장샵추천┊오피☵역출장안마➚구리
  • 구리출장안마【카톡: mo27】{anma02.c0m}출장만족보장콜걸만남Y☛♩2019-01-19-18-28구리▩AIJ⇟콜걸추천오피걸출장만족보장┇콜걸출장마사지╍릉콜걸샵✘구리
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  • 구리안마[카톡: mo27]『anma02.c0m』콜걸후기미시출장안마Y↸♢2019-01-19-18-28구리➨AIJ↝출장소이스홍성출장업소콜걸강추⇩콜걸만남◐흥출장안마⇡구리구리오피일본인출장샵구리출장시(카톡: mo27){anma02.c0m}콜걸만남출장업계위Y●↬2019-01-19-18-28구리┤AIJ▶콜걸출장안마릉콜걸샵릉콜걸샵✪출장오피┱콜걸업소♛구리
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  • 구리출장외국인
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    부산출장업계위⇖광명모텔출장£〖구리콜걸샵《카톡: mo27》(anma02.c0m)출장몸매최고출장만남Y▌╌2019-01-19-18-28구리⇔AIJ◇출장만남출장맛사지출장외국인↩모텔출장↞외국인출장만남↬구리〗충청남도출장안마추천◑김제동출장마사지▩과천출장샵추천웃경주출장서비스문경콜걸만남╁양산출장서비스보장☆〖구리출장만남《카톡: mo27》(anma02.c0m)콜걸후기출장오쓰피걸Y↦╫2019-01-19-18-28구리◄AIJ♜출장오쓰피걸출장최강미녀출장안마야한곳♡출장샵안내╉출장서비스보장 구리〗논산역출장안마☆남양주출장샵추천┳군산콜걸만남➛아산오피구리출장몸매최고출장아가씨
  • 구리출장마사지【카톡: mo27】《anma02.c0m》안마출장시Y☇♪ 2019-01-19-18-28구리╉AIJ♙출장최고시출장안마추천출장안마추천↡출장샵추천♥콜걸후기▲구리
  • 순천모텔출장☢의정부미시출장안마✑〖구리출장샵콜걸(카톡: mo27)[anma02.c0m]출장만남흥출장안마Y⇍“2019-01-19-18-28구리⇄AIJ☈출장최강미녀출장몸매최고오피걸U출장업소╓출장외국인✔구리〗경산콜걸샵☇동두천역출장안마⇢통영출장가격U경상남도출장샵예약포항
  • 구리미시출장안마
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